Sunday, March 25, 2012

Beautiful Bandra, Mumbai: Day 1 India

Bikes and Drying Fabrics on the Boardwalk at Sunrise
                                                     Bandra West, Mumbai, India: 
                                                                                   24 March 2012

Early Bird Special: Morning Walk at Bandra West Boardwalk

The sounds of cooing birds wake me from my sleep.  Their cackling avian banter pervades every cell of my being as I breathe in a fresh day after my first full night of sleep on India’s sacred soil.  The rhythms of the morning sun, soon to rise, and the light wind brushing across my face warmly reminds me that I am in a new country, a new land, a new universe.  My heart skips a beat—I am elated, dazzled, charmed by Mumbai’s intoxicating fervor.  

Marigolds & Bells Greeting Onlookers at an Entranceway, Bandra West, Mumbai

The smell of fresh mangoes, the sounds of honking rickshaws, the stop and go of painted trucks, the passing by of women and children, the cool marble beneath my feet, the churn of our water distiller grinding fresh drink, the muddled whisper of swiftly moving fans, the push and pull of the keyboard as it pounces words upon the page… life is full of the noisy emanations inviting me to a world which will now be considered home.  Graciously, I call the voices of the ancestors,  the collective of India’s spiritual heritage: India will speak, if I am only willing to listen.  As the Ewe in Ghana’s Volta region say, “My ears have been opened, kra.”  I only need to step outside to be immersed within the chaotic symphony of urban life in the tiny city within the city upon a hill in Bandra West, Mumbai’s tree-lined neighborhood teaming with the grit of life.  The town is filled with love, ingenuity, and perhaps even an artisanal of magic!  

Rickshaw Heaven! (Or, a way to get from here to there).
                                                     We are here, finally.  And so the journey begins…

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

India India India! Seven Days 'Til Departure

                     In exactly one week I will be getting on a plane and leaving my old life behind. 

New life, New Adventure

In eight short days I will be sleeping in my new home in India exposed to a new life, culture, language, and experience.  After a quick visit to California and a short jaunt down south to see family, my days in DC are limited... only three full days left! 

Time moves so quickly when there are a million things to get done.  So many tasks, chores, and shopping trips compile and build upon one another until moments of peace and quiet in preparation for departure are few and far between.  I know today is close to our US departure because I am selling my car, starting my anti-malarials, and packing the final suitcase that will be with me on the plane.  Days are becoming longer and more full with last minute gatherings, lists of to-dos, and final farewells from friends and family.  I have left the United States previously for months at a time, but this is the first time in my life that I will be outside of US borders for two years straight.  Needless to say, I am excited/nervous/happy/curious/elated that we are given such a fantastic opportunity to see and experience the world.
Charleston, SC sunset: the wind will take you with her...



Wish me luck and happy travels, if you like : ).

The next post will be from Mumbai! 

All good thoughts,
Christi

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Out and About in Falls Church, VA

Sign Board at Sweet Water Cafe

Falls Church is off of the orange line metro station, with stops in East and West Falls Church.  It is possible to get from the heart of downtown DC to Falls Church via metro in about 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the train schedule.

When we first moved to the area a few months back I went for a trek from our apartment to the Falls' Church city center, which was a good 3.5 mile hike from doorstop to doorstop.  Watching the fall leaves literally pour off the trees into the neighborhood lawns of citizens helpless to the inevitable mess, and exploring the musty antique shops, 19th century churches, and local restaurants were the highlight of the trip.  Plus, with hills and heavy walking, I was able to have the 'just-stretched and am now sore' feeling the next morning that made me think I had actually accomplished something important.  That, or my huffing and puffing confirms that I am officially out of shape.  (My ego is sticking to 'having accomplished something important.')
Great Falls Hike on a Winter Day

We went into two antique/local artist shops that had a variety of random knick-knacks.  The dust-filled antique shop on the main road had all sorts of stuff, from Waterford glass, 1950s paraphernalia, and Santos (Catholic religious icons) to 1970s paintings, African masks, and coin collections.  The other shop was off a side street and had more locally produced art items (including claywork, painting, and crafts) and several art studios upstairs.  I like to go into community run stores to see what local flavors are selling.  Falls Church also has a Venezuelan restaurant (connected to a Motor Lodge) that I have been told has surprisingly good food.  The downtown itself is safe and a number of families were trekking about on Sunday afternoon with kids in tow and babies perched atop happily smiling fathers.

What we were ultimately drawn to in Falls Church was an offbeat Clare and Don's Beach Shack restaurant that served up Florida Kitsch and California Casual with a remarkable sense of comfort.  Inside the Beach Shack, walls are laden with individually painted and inscribed flip-flops, brightly colored wall hangings, beach sayings, and absolutely no sense of irony (even as we took off our winter coats to sit in a raffia-palm rooftop).  This type of mom and pop shop is my kind of place.  I was reminded of growing up in Laguna Beach and San Clemente, California: it relayed that effortless, affordable, surf-style--that sand-between-your-toes and still-in-your-hair laid back kind of vibe.  It's weird how such an environment suddenly makes me feel 'home.'  I actually forgot I was in Virginia until I stepped back onto the cool, crisp streets.  The fish and chips at the Beach Shack were good and the chopped salad I had was nicely finished (read: I polished me plate, argh).  We're planning on going back for trivia on Wednesday night before we leave for India.
And so the Cupcake said, with her big brown eyes, please don't eat me!!!  Nevertheless, a tasty endeavor of chocolate induced guilt awaits you at the Falls Church Greek deli...


In the main part of downtown, the Mad Fox is an upper mid-range restaurant and brewing company that has friendly service, locally brewed adult beverages, and snacks such as Frickles (fried pickles) and Dutch-Indian style meat poppers.  If you step outside of the main center of Falls Church, the Dogfish Head Ale House on 6220 Leesburg Pike is an amazing brewpub with a number of beers on tap to pick from, including seasonal ales like Punkin' and Raison d'Etre (reason-to-be) as well as high gravity beers up to 15%!  At 9 bucks I thought the six-serve sampler (or 'flight') of Dogfish Head beers was well worth the investment.  We sat and caught up with an old friend there for nearly four hours.
Am I feelin' lucky?  Oh yeah.
Other sites of interest in the area include Castro's Bakery, Mexican restaurants near Safeway, Pho and more Pho, and Peruvian, Lebanese, and Afghani foodstops ... let the eating commence!  Eden Center, a Vietnamese shopping center with restaurants, markets, and Chinese medicinal herbs, had a fantastic Chinese New Year celebration including traditional dragons, firecrackers, drums, and gongs.  Apparently the year of the Dragon is propitious for having babies, so the expected increase in childbirth this year among communities recognizing the astral calendar is marked to go up 15%!


                    We are definitely exploring
                      our local surroundings!    

                              Catch up soon!

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

DC's National Zoo

"Pink is the new Black" 

This past weekend I checked out DC's downtown National Zoo.  The last time I went to the National Zoo I was seven years old, obsessed with all things panda, and ended up leaving with both panda face paint and matching earrings to boot.  This time, unfortunately, I left face paint free but I still had a wonderful trek checking out the lions, tiger, and zoo bears, oh my!  The best thing about the National Zoo is that it is open to the general public at the cost of FREE and is an activity you can share in for an hour or two over several days or for a very full afternoon with family.

Hey good lookin'!
I recently saw a cartoon that showed the proverbial white-haired God mastering the details of his kingdom's creation.  It showed four white bears going through a massive supernatural printer that was quickly running out of ink: the first one out became a black bear in the west, the second one emerged as a brown bear from the south, the third one was a combo of black and white Rorschach blots--panda of the east, and the last poor guy went through God's printer virtually unscathed--a white polar bear residing in the north.  And that, my friends, is why we have different types of bears--the ink cartridge wasn't working and needed a bit of a reboot.  Cartoons make things so simple...  Anyhow, I was thinking about that image as I stared at the Panda ma and her cub, both playing with plastic rocks meant to make the exhibit appear natural.  The cub was no bigger than the size of a Great Dane, and impressed upon me that pandas will continue into our children's futures.  I've heard that at the zoos in Japan, zookeepers working with the animals dress in panda suits when walking amongst them so as to not disturb the breeding cycle of the notoriously elusive panda.  Pretty incredible.

Single and ready to mingle...
The National Zoo now houses a bridge overhang into the elephant sanctuary; a large pool with variously shaded pink, hot pink, light pink, and white flamingos; the altogether fascinating and deeply expressive gorillas and orangutangs; small varietal monkeys and chimps; a family of lions and a few tigers; zebras and exotic birds; and reptiles and small rodents.

On this visit, my favorite encounters involved the flamingos, gorillas, and lions.  The flamingos were having some sort of turf battle amongst themselves and so begin to squawk, flap their wings about, and nuzzle adjacent flamingo partners within their open nabbing beaks.  Within thirty seconds, I saw more flamingo action than I had seen in several previous flamingo visits elsewhere.  The Columbia Zoo in South Carolina (which is not free), for example, has an open view without fences separating the viewer from the flirty flamingos.  I prefer fence-free, but hey, these DC flamingos were willing to give a show for nada, so not too shabby.

Here Kitty, Kitty!

The tiger was hidden amongst his backdrop but the lions, who are usually sleeping when I walk by, were actively playing, faux-fighting, competing for the top dog (er--cat) position, and generally relaying quite the National Geographic-worthy performance.  There were ten in total visible, all female except for two male juveniles who were yet to grow into giant, Mufasa-style manes. (All the kids around us were quoting lines from The Lion King.)
Zen and the Art of Meditation

It turns out all the action from the lions was due to dinner time, aka raw meat city.  So if you want to check out the lions while their active, come to their place just after 4.  By 4:30, most of the lions are back inside.

The gorillas, well, I am so impressed with the way their eyes and body language connotes compassion, general curiosity, and a sense of humor.  Some gorillas like to play with their food (again and again) and this seems to fascinate the little ones, who scream in delight at the chewed up specimens.  Other gorillas will use epic comic timing to spray water towards its captive audience.  A man to my left, in the viewing room, sat directly at the eye-level of one magnificent gorilla and just sat there while eating an apple.  I noticed the gorillas would follow my own eye movements, perhaps both bewildered and intrigued by the hairless, photo-flashing homo sapiens across the thin layer of glass.

What are YOU lookin' at, huh?!
Looking into the eyes of an old friend.
I am reminded of Frans de Waal's work, The Ape and the Sushi Master, which addresses the (seeming oxymoron) of the anthropological and cultural nature of animal relationships and intelligence.  De Waal talks about how pigeons with a little food encouragement could quickly decipher not only between Picasso and Matisse paintings, but on period-specific artist styles.  Impressive.  Plus, a number of animals (including crows) create tools or manipulate their environments so that they can have better access to food, the ladies/gents of their species, or a comfortable living space.  It was helpful to read about how the preconceptions of the researchers affected what and how they conveyed the cultural relations of animals--basically how our own worldviews shape how we perceive the worldviews and mind frames of others.  Those Bonobo in the DRC really have struck many academics for a loop.  Same with the dolphins and their unerring draw towards non-productive pleasure behavior, er-hum.  I think we often give animals too little credit: elephants mourn, beavers build, birds sing, whales relay messages, and the mating habits of most reflect tact, courage, and long-held (embedded or learned) traditions.  I find animal culture fascinating, and I think that the animals watch us just as much or more than we watch them.     

I've heard that checking out the National Zoo's animals when the weather is cooler means they are more likely to be active.  (Hot = Siesta time).  So maybe it's worth it to put on a hat and sweater.  Plus, from late November through December, a light show with giant fluorescent-bulb pandas, elephants, zebras and the like will greet you in the dark of winter.  Pretty sweet deal for a day or evening, and then if you are up for a bite afterwards, Adams Morgan (at the metro stop) is just a few blocks away.

Friday, January 13, 2012

Buying for My Future Self, Or, What do I Really Need in order to be Happy?

Time is a beautiful thing to waste so gingerly...
I have been told the four seasons of Mumbai are Temperate, Hot, Hotter, and Monsoon.  While most four-season people cringe at the idea of hot and hotter, I embrace it wholeheartedly.  I enjoy the heat, to a point.  Past 100 Fahrenheit and I'm a bit more indoor-focused, but give me a mid-80s day and I am a happy camper, particularly if the smell of salt water is near.

For now, in the coming cold of winter, I am enjoying each sweater and jacket that I wear, knowing they will soon be past their efficient use and nestled away in dusty storage.  It's a bid odd to think about what needs to be packed, and what needs to be forgotten, for the next two years.  Monsoon season?  Well then you'll certainly need galoshes.  High-held sun?  Well then you'll certainly need sunscreen.  I am trying to buy, organize, and track down all of the toiletries, scattered items, foodstuffs, and accoutrements that might strike my fancy (or scream of necessity) during the next twenty-four months...  Toilet paper, shoes, detergent, shampoo, clothing, pet meds, paperwork, shots, visas, tennis balls, stationary, Pepto, and more!

The list expands and stands,
like dead weight,
cycling on repeat in my head
about what I can't forget.

Which gets me wondering...  
Creature comforts can carry me so far, and coffee in the morning gets my blood pumping but...

What types of things can't I live without?  What can I let be a thing of the past?

Shadows are the dreams we have left behind,
dormant whispers of the past in hiding,
the present awaiting, and the future wishes
left on hold...

The question of the day for readers and myself alike is:
                                                                                        What do we really need in order to be happy?

(Or, what do I project as a wanted good which is really a replacement for lack or limitation of sustained interior nourishment?)

A Goal for 2012
For example, who knew that the Snuggie, Chia Pets, and the Shake Weight wouldn't be in fashion (ever again!) at the turn of 2012?!  And who would have thought the world could live without the  electrically-run twisting spaghetti fork?  I must consider the unthinkable: will I ever survive without large chain store conglomerates?  Will I thrive in a land without fountains of icy cool Diet Coke?

Life is tough, surely, without American novelties.  The good news about myself, I have learned, is that I can quickly adapt to life without running water, large product selection, and housewares when I am living and doing interesting things with likable people.  The prep work of travel, however, always gets me dreaming about what I will inevitably forget and has me worrying about how I could ever survive without what I've (in imagination) forgotten!  In reality, on ground level, the things I fretted about in planning never amount to much of anything.  That is why this year, as a resolution, I am going to take life in stride and embrace whatever scenario is before me... letting go of the control so often expected in well-established daily living. 

                                      So I say this dear friends, with verve: Game on world, game on!

Monday, January 9, 2012

Outside Seattle: The Olympic Peninsula & Bainbridge Island

Coffee and Fall Leaves = Perfection

A last adieu to fall now that winter has set in...

A few last flowers in bloom on Whidbey Island
In Washington's fall on the Olympic Peninsula, the leaves are spectacular, with colors ranging from fluorescent yellows and rustic oranges to deep hues of burnt red, bright fire, and ombre.  Checking out the fall leaves, which turn colors from early to mid-October, and mostly fall by early November, is worth the trek alone.  Looking around I felt like a child, constantly impressing listeners with "oohs" and "ahs" and "wows" as we passed by groves of season-changing trees.  "Look at that yellow!  Look at that red!  Look at the leaves fall from the sky to their bed!"  When all the leaves fall, it makes me a bit sad: like when the girls dress up for prom, and at the end of the ball, you wipe off your make-up and put on those comfy sweats you've worn the last three nights to bed.  I get that winter must come, but the leaves--they deserve a longer showing for all of their chlorophyll wonder.  Just saying.  At least, in compensation, I can hear their crispy cackle under my feet once they've nestled comfortably into the unswept sidewalk.
View from the State park on the outskirts of Port Townsend





Fountain statue in Port Townsend square
Port Townsend is another Olympic Peninsula town I am highly fond of.  What I like about Port Townsend is its off-beat, idiosyncratic charm and the wide variety of stores.  From Indigenous masks, cloths, paintings, and sculptures to a New Age bookstore, used books, a Writer's Workshop, thrift stores and jewelry, art, and garden supplies, the town has a sense of identity that is tangibly perceived and valued by its residents: it is funky, groovy, alive, and amusing.  People are talkative, have a sense of humor, and are good storytellers.  At least an afternoon can be used to rummage through shops and special finds that often feel genuinely local.  If you are looking for some sort of Northwestern sweater, handcrafted jewelry, or Native American art, Port Townsend is a great place to stop and check out for a while.  We went to a tasty Thai house restaurant on a side street off the main road and it was like stepping into a 1950s movie set.  I tried the black rice and mung bean with coconut milk for dessert (served hot)--it has quickly become a craving I now seek for in the Falls Church's South Vietnamese Eden Center outside of DC.  The book stores in the town are also great if you are a reader and are looking for inspiration in finding something new to peruse.

Beach kelp can be 10 feet long!
Sea Grass

Kelp salad, anyone?  (I heard they are *full* of antioxidants!)


 













This boat has seen better days....
Port Townsend area state park


Port Townsend is known for several key areas to visit outside of its downtown shops. There are two beaches in the area, one that has amazing hiking trails on a clifftop and the other which is a part of a (pay-per-use) state park.  I must note that in early November, while the views were spectacular, the wind seizing the waves into frenetic splendor was cold, cold, COLD.  I don't mean chilly.  I mean freezing.  Bring a warm hat, gloves, and heavy jacket for this time of year.  Nevertheless, there were a million seagulls flying about, gobs of gems and rocks, giant seaweed, and washed up timber that made the beach a visual draw.  Beyond the State Park beach, there are a number of former military buildings (now a museum) that were used on movie sets such as Richard Gere's now classic, An Officer and a Gentlemen.



If you want to move from the movie set to a real-life fiction, go to Gig Harbor in the summer, where they hold a yearly Renaissance Faire with live trolls under a bridge, swordsmen and Guinevere(s), and enormous turkey legs that make you feel like you're in (a modern-day adaptation of life in) the Middle Ages.  Huzzah!   

Good to know...
Port Townsend also has a ferry to Whidbey Island, which is fun for an afternoon about in the small town of Langley.  Langley has a chocolatier that innovates cocoa creations involving spices, salted caramels, and truffle little bites of heaven (if you are one for the sweet tooth).  The small cinema downtown and the adjoining waterside restaurants make for a good dinner-date combo.  Several shops sell higher end tourist and gift goods.  The Fish Bowl restaurant, which was Ah-mazing, went out of business a few years ago (boo economy): the five-course meal and pairing was art on a plate (i.e. clam shell on a bed of sea salt with seared scallops and braised lemon).  It was there I tried my first (and only) gooey duck (aka geoduck), which is an odd-looking sea creature specific to the Pacific Northwest.  Seriously, the thing is creepy looking, check it out on the interweb people!  

Funky art is scattered about town
Bainbridge Island, and specifically the city of Bainbridge, is fun for an afternoon of shopping and walking about.  The harbor there is beautiful and there are modern statues by local artists dispersed along the waterside pathway.  If you are into yarn (which is not my thing particularly, but is otherwise a family-inherited trait of obsession/love/adoration), check out their yarn shop displays and purty skeins.  I went to Nola, a European-style cafe for brunch, with four others and everyone was pleasantly satisfied with their mid-morning selections.  The style of houses in Bainbridge varies from the other Port cities (Pt. Townsend, Pt. Gamble, Pt. Ludlow) in that much of the homes have sleek, modern styles, clean lines, and a more polished feel.  Bainbridge also feels more city-like because of its view of Seattle's night life across the water.  Port Townsend, conversely, is more quirky and casual and Port Ludlow's homes in the hills have a defined rustic elegance. 
Bainbridge Harbor Views
Heave-ho!

               This was a good chat people, good chat.  Thanks for reading--we'll catch up soon!



Tuesday, January 3, 2012

A Time of New Beginnings.


As a sun-centered girl (read: not winter bunny), I am appreciative of the fact that the DC weather will only be with me a short six (6) weeks: by the end of February I will have arrived and settled in India and began a new chapter.  Entering this year I am thankful that these next 12 months will be a challenging adventure full of new peoples, cultures, expectations, and experiences.  I am also grateful that in America the New Year is a time culturally designated as a moment for reflection, transitions, time with family, and new beginnings.  It is from this place that I join the New Year mightily!

Winter is the time for hot cocoa, warm
fires, blankets, and brisk walks.
When the leaves fall and the trees are left with their weathered skeletons exposed to the sobering world, it is a reminder that life is full of cycles: rejuvenation, culling, rest, and rebirth.  I suppose the New Year reminds us of our past wrongs and rights, even as we spring forward to reflect what we'd like to change and see differently over the coming months.  We are not meant to transform the very core of our being, but rather, ignite within ourselves those things, visions, plans, and practices which emote and reflect our very best selves.

Self-searching, like trying to shop for your future (abroad) self, requires you to sort through layers and layers of stuff before you can learn what you really need and can discover what you don't actually want.  
It need not matter if it is the deal of a lifetime if the shiny package before you holds little substance.  Fortunately, when you've done the interior work, found what you're looking for, and grooved into the form of your dazzling new self, like diamonds, and chocolate wishes, the results are deliciously sweet!

May your 2012 be filled with joy, howls of laughter, soul-satisfaction, happiness, good health, and while you're at it, throw in some fabulosity and razzle dazzle because by Jove, we're worth it!

                  That's  right, I said razzle dazzle... this year I'm planning to put my dancin' shoes on!