Washington's Olympic Peninsula: Poulsbo, Port Ludlow & Port Gamble

Fall leaves in full bloom!

 On my recent trip to the Seattle area, I spent
several weeks on the Olympic Peninsula.  Just an hour or two outside of the city, depending on traffic, the feel of the Olympic Peninsula is like landing on another planet.Lush, green rain forests, bountiful trees, panoramic mountains, water views, and small, quaint towns give off the feel of a rural oasis set amongst nature.

 This is what you will see to your left when driving over the bridge from Port Townsend to Port Ludlow

Some of the views are literally breathtaking: going over the bridge from Poulsbo to Port Ludlow to my left was a flitting sun kissing the water, and to my right a breached seal who (no lie) winked at me.  Though I did not see a whale, otters are more common fodder, and are known for not only looking adorable but also for using their sticky fingers to grab tasty morsels from the local trash bin.  Deers, including 10-point bucks, are plentiful--though from locals I have learned that this unfortunately affects all things flowers, which
quickly become gobbled-down deer treats.

My mom told me that a few months back on her landing she awoke to the sound of snoring, only to find when she turned on the porch light that a cougar (real full size mountain lion cougar!!!!) was taking a catnap in front of her petunias.  Bears, apparently, occasionally interact with human inhabitants on the outskirts of golf courses and nature trails.  I heard about a woman walking her little pooch, only to find herself in the unfortunate position of fighting off an eagle reaching for the leash.  (Sadly, the eagle won).  This is wilderness, people.  Walking around just outside of the small towns it feels like virgin territory--untouched, pristine land with clean waterways and active wildlife.

Port Ludlow's lil' harbor

In the small town of Port Ludlow ('a village in the forest by the bay') there is Teal Lake, a hike to the waterfalls, nature trails, golfing, and yachting.  While the village center is a quick drive-by (the movie rental store is a part of the gas station), there are beautiful homes nestled away that have spectacular views of Whidbey Island, passing cruise ships, watercraft airplanes, and every now and again a Native American paddling canoe group.  Nature literally is your neighbor and, except for the occasional sleeping kitty kat on your porch, the clean air and fresh smells of fir trees makes you feel like you are miles away from city life while still remaining in the lap of luxury (read: heated home).  Local adventurers are known for crabbing, hiking, hunting, fishing, and searching out coveted mushrooms--though their secret locations I cannot tell!  Port Ludlow is a great place to retire if you are looking for a community group of educated and interesting world travelers and enthusiasts.

Norwegian charm emanates from this great little town.

Poulsbo is a charming Norwegian town in Kitsap County, founded in 1885.  The town of Poulsbo has a boardwalk adjacent to the water at Liberty Bay that is stroll-worthy and lovely on a cool, windless day.  The boardwalk has a magnificent 360 view of mountains and boats as well as the occasional brood of ducks that are quite the entertainers!  At least three local chain coffee stores exist and Italian, Thai, American, and Norwegian restaurants are available.  The bakery in Poulsbo has breads, pastries, cookies, and sweets that are all scratch-made on the premises and are delicioso in the belly (though probably not on the thighs).  Over the years I have tried the cinnamon-orange bread, adorable ginger men, apple turnovers and bear crullers and have yet to be disappointed.  The treats there are sweet but not too sugary, a perfect delight.  Central Market is located in Poulsbo and it is arguably the BEST market selection I have ever seen, anywhere.  They have fresh-made high-grade sushi, hand-made hot out of the oven tortillas, a large buffet and to-go prepared food section, vegetable and fruit varietals from around the world, global spices, and all the nature-fruit-nut-herb things you'd typically find in a Whole Foods store.  I hate to say it, but I plan my vacation days to Poulsbo around my Central Market excursion: it is that awesome.  Poulsbo downtown also has a few funky art co-ops, dress stores, furniture and garden shops, and stores great for buying affordable gifts.  There is even a small Norwegian grocer that sells all things Scandinavian including specialty cheeses, chocolates, meats, and mints.  If you are interested in a day trip in the Olympic Peninsula, Poulsbo is definitely worth the trek.

Port Gamble is a small, up-and-coming village/town with only a handful of residents but a number of small shops and a few restaurants.  The theme of the town focuses on its timber mill history and the few Victorian houses and church are nice to walk by when traveling on the Port Gamble square.  Around Halloween, the town was hosting a "Ghost Hunting Conference" so many of the visitors were looking for their invisible counterparts in the supposedly haunted Victorian house (now for rent) with the front facing the port waters.  The General Store across from the Post Office serves food and sells kitschy trinkets.  The kayak business formerly in Poulsbo moved to Port Gamble, so if you are up for getting really sore hands and potentially falling into icy waters, here's where you can do it.  I would prefer to kayak in the area's warmest months, mid-July to early-August.  About nine months of the year a light to heavy sweater is required, but when it is not raining it is comfortable and enjoyable to walk the dogs on the footpaths and greet friendly locals.

You can get to the Olympic Peninsula from Seattle by taking the Kingston-Edmunds ferry.  The drive to Port Gamble, Poulsbo, Port Townsend, and Port Ludlow from there is between twenty and forty minutes.  In Kingston, nota bene, is an amazing little crepe and galette (savory crepe) shop that is cheap, informal, mere feet from the ferry, and absolutely fabulous (AbFab, dahling!).  I had a craving and went back specifically for the galette with poached egg, spinach, roasted almonds, honey dijon, grilled mushrooms and onions with a frothy cappuccino to boot.  Mmmm....  Note: if going all out on the galette, bring a breath mint: le garlique (ail) est plus forte! 

Port Townsend, Bainbridge, and Whidbey Island write-ups coming soon!