Monday, January 9, 2012

Outside Seattle: The Olympic Peninsula & Bainbridge Island

Coffee and Fall Leaves = Perfection

A last adieu to fall now that winter has set in...

A few last flowers in bloom on Whidbey Island
In Washington's fall on the Olympic Peninsula, the leaves are spectacular, with colors ranging from fluorescent yellows and rustic oranges to deep hues of burnt red, bright fire, and ombre.  Checking out the fall leaves, which turn colors from early to mid-October, and mostly fall by early November, is worth the trek alone.  Looking around I felt like a child, constantly impressing listeners with "oohs" and "ahs" and "wows" as we passed by groves of season-changing trees.  "Look at that yellow!  Look at that red!  Look at the leaves fall from the sky to their bed!"  When all the leaves fall, it makes me a bit sad: like when the girls dress up for prom, and at the end of the ball, you wipe off your make-up and put on those comfy sweats you've worn the last three nights to bed.  I get that winter must come, but the leaves--they deserve a longer showing for all of their chlorophyll wonder.  Just saying.  At least, in compensation, I can hear their crispy cackle under my feet once they've nestled comfortably into the unswept sidewalk.
View from the State park on the outskirts of Port Townsend





Fountain statue in Port Townsend square
Port Townsend is another Olympic Peninsula town I am highly fond of.  What I like about Port Townsend is its off-beat, idiosyncratic charm and the wide variety of stores.  From Indigenous masks, cloths, paintings, and sculptures to a New Age bookstore, used books, a Writer's Workshop, thrift stores and jewelry, art, and garden supplies, the town has a sense of identity that is tangibly perceived and valued by its residents: it is funky, groovy, alive, and amusing.  People are talkative, have a sense of humor, and are good storytellers.  At least an afternoon can be used to rummage through shops and special finds that often feel genuinely local.  If you are looking for some sort of Northwestern sweater, handcrafted jewelry, or Native American art, Port Townsend is a great place to stop and check out for a while.  We went to a tasty Thai house restaurant on a side street off the main road and it was like stepping into a 1950s movie set.  I tried the black rice and mung bean with coconut milk for dessert (served hot)--it has quickly become a craving I now seek for in the Falls Church's South Vietnamese Eden Center outside of DC.  The book stores in the town are also great if you are a reader and are looking for inspiration in finding something new to peruse.

Beach kelp can be 10 feet long!
Sea Grass

Kelp salad, anyone?  (I heard they are *full* of antioxidants!)


 













This boat has seen better days....
Port Townsend area state park


Port Townsend is known for several key areas to visit outside of its downtown shops. There are two beaches in the area, one that has amazing hiking trails on a clifftop and the other which is a part of a (pay-per-use) state park.  I must note that in early November, while the views were spectacular, the wind seizing the waves into frenetic splendor was cold, cold, COLD.  I don't mean chilly.  I mean freezing.  Bring a warm hat, gloves, and heavy jacket for this time of year.  Nevertheless, there were a million seagulls flying about, gobs of gems and rocks, giant seaweed, and washed up timber that made the beach a visual draw.  Beyond the State Park beach, there are a number of former military buildings (now a museum) that were used on movie sets such as Richard Gere's now classic, An Officer and a Gentlemen.



If you want to move from the movie set to a real-life fiction, go to Gig Harbor in the summer, where they hold a yearly Renaissance Faire with live trolls under a bridge, swordsmen and Guinevere(s), and enormous turkey legs that make you feel like you're in (a modern-day adaptation of life in) the Middle Ages.  Huzzah!   

Good to know...
Port Townsend also has a ferry to Whidbey Island, which is fun for an afternoon about in the small town of Langley.  Langley has a chocolatier that innovates cocoa creations involving spices, salted caramels, and truffle little bites of heaven (if you are one for the sweet tooth).  The small cinema downtown and the adjoining waterside restaurants make for a good dinner-date combo.  Several shops sell higher end tourist and gift goods.  The Fish Bowl restaurant, which was Ah-mazing, went out of business a few years ago (boo economy): the five-course meal and pairing was art on a plate (i.e. clam shell on a bed of sea salt with seared scallops and braised lemon).  It was there I tried my first (and only) gooey duck (aka geoduck), which is an odd-looking sea creature specific to the Pacific Northwest.  Seriously, the thing is creepy looking, check it out on the interweb people!  

Funky art is scattered about town
Bainbridge Island, and specifically the city of Bainbridge, is fun for an afternoon of shopping and walking about.  The harbor there is beautiful and there are modern statues by local artists dispersed along the waterside pathway.  If you are into yarn (which is not my thing particularly, but is otherwise a family-inherited trait of obsession/love/adoration), check out their yarn shop displays and purty skeins.  I went to Nola, a European-style cafe for brunch, with four others and everyone was pleasantly satisfied with their mid-morning selections.  The style of houses in Bainbridge varies from the other Port cities (Pt. Townsend, Pt. Gamble, Pt. Ludlow) in that much of the homes have sleek, modern styles, clean lines, and a more polished feel.  Bainbridge also feels more city-like because of its view of Seattle's night life across the water.  Port Townsend, conversely, is more quirky and casual and Port Ludlow's homes in the hills have a defined rustic elegance. 
Bainbridge Harbor Views
Heave-ho!

               This was a good chat people, good chat.  Thanks for reading--we'll catch up soon!



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